March 4, 2008 - Montevideo, Uruguay
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I woke up at 8 AM and was out of the hotel by 9. The hotel does not provide breakfast. I located the nearest laundry and ask for a 1-day service on a trouser and shirt. The cost was UR$110 (US$5.5) and it would be ready after 9 AM tomorrow. I headed next to a currency exchange and changed US$120 to Uruguayan pesos (the exchange rate was down to 21 pesos to a dollar). As the rate was close to 25 about 4-5 months ago, Uruguay appears to be yet another country where the weak dollar is hurting me.
I had an Orange Juice at McDonald's for breakfast before heading to the tourist office located in the town hall. An English speaking girl provided me with lots of information on Montevideo. I started to look for a Vegetarian restaurant as I had decided to have lunch before commencing my walking tour of Montevideo. After a fruitless search lasting 30 minutes, I headed to a Nouvelle cuisine cafe and had a Spinach Empanada and a muffin for lunch!
I walked to the Old City. I visited the Plaza Independencia, Jose Artigas' mausoleum, the Old City Gate, the Uruguayan Club, the Montevideo Cathedral etc before I found myself at the National tourism office. The girl here was even more helpful and provided me with lots of Information. She booked my bus ticket to Colonia (2 days from now) and also offered to make hotel reservations in Colonia as well. She provided me with the respective bus routes for the various places in Montevideo (Montevideo does not have any trains) as well as vegetarian restaurants in the city. By the end of my 40-minute stay at the tourism office, the staff of 4 was exclusively working for me! I was given numerous warnings about my camera and how I ought to be careful walking the streets here.
I was also told about the Origins of the name of Montevideo. The original surveyors had given it the following name - Monte VI de E o O (Monte VI de Este o Oeste) - the 6th Mountain of the East and West.
I decided to take a bus to the top of the short hill that gave Montevideo its name. After a 1-hour ride, I got off close to the Cerro. I took shelter for 15-minutes while a short downpour ensued. I walked for 20 minutes before reaching the hill. The hill houses a military fort and is open to the public Wednesdays through Sundays from 10 AM - 5 PM. Today is a Tuesday! Even without entering the fort premises, I could get a decent view of Montevideo from here. I did not expect great pictures as the weather continued to be dull and grey throughout.
Some of the tourism offices have really gone out of their way to help me out. It is really fantastic.
I took a bus back from the Cerro to Ciudad Vieja (Old City). I walked around and took pictures. It was 6:30 PM. I visited the 130-year old cafe Brasiliero and had a cafe cortado (Coffee, water and milk). While drinking my coffee, I also updated my diary. I walked to the centre of town and spent an hour at an internet cafe. I headed to a Vegetarian restaurant (Sala) for dinner and had health food! The restaurant had a decent buffet spread including a choice of 2 desserts for UR$129 (US$6). After dinner, I walked back to my hotel. I had a quick stop at an internet cafe to let my hotel in Colonia know of my change in plans (I was originally schedule to depart Montevideo for Colonia on 5th March - Now I would do so on March 6th).
On reaching the hotel, I went to the Balcony and took some pictures of the street below. I wrote my diary for a bit before going to bed.
One of the interesting sights in Montevideo: Horse Carts are used to cart refuse.
March 5, 2008 - Montevideo, Uruguay
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I was ready by 8:30 AM. I waited a bit at the front desk while the reception folks sorted out my extra night of stay (As I had mentioned before, I was schedule to depart Montevideo today - but was staying here for an extra night). All was settled after 15-minutes. I headed to the laundry to pick up my clothes. The lady at the Laundromat inquired about my touring experience yesterday and apologized for the bad weather today. I sincerely hope that the weather improves. I headed with my Camera and Tripod to Teatro Solis for a tour of the Theatre. There was no one around!
I headed to the Numismatic Museum. I was not allowed to take my camera and had to check it in at the security desk. The museum houses not only an impressive display of Historical (and current) Uruguayan currencies, but it also has a display section devoted to currencies from other countries. After spending 30 minutes here, I asked to purchase a set of coins for my collection. After some back and forth between a security guard and someone on the other end of a Telephone, I was introduced to a gentleman who took me to his office and showed me a price list of the various souvenir sets on offer at the Numismatic museum. He also offered the current set of coins at face value in plastic pouches. I purchased 2 of the current coin sets for UR$75 (less than US$4). Uruguay releases coins well after their supposed release date. The coins supposed to be released in 2008 will not be minted and available until 2010! Many of the older coins had the Independence hero Artigas. The proposal to change the head of newer coins to animals had raised a big hue and cry - on how Artigas could be replaced by Animals. The government has gone ahead anyway and new coins with Animal faces would be released in the coming years.
The rain had picked up considerably since I entered the museum. After a quick check at an Internet cafe, I headed to Teatro Solis for the 12 Noon tour. Free Spanish tours are offered on Wednesdays. English tours, however, cost UR$40 (US$2). I took the English tour at Noon.
The tour was conducted by a very attractive Uruguayan guide who spoke excellent English as she had been an exchange student (many years ago) in the US. The rest of our group were day trippers from Buenos Aires. It was a good tour. I was allowed to use my tripod and I took as many pictures as I could. A couple of mimes put up an Impromptu show (during our tour) which was quite entertaining. The Theatre has had many refurbishments and upgrades done over the years and is currently trying to hold performances of one kind or the other year around.
I had lunch at a local creperie. The Crepes were good and I was quite happy and satisfied with my lunch. Post lunch I headed to Uruguayan post to inquire about shipping some of my stuff back to the US. I decided to wait a bit longer. I headed next to the MAPI (Museo de Arte Precolumbino e Indigena) which was housed in an old building used earlier by the ministry of defence. The museum had a decent collection of artefacts most of which were between 500 BC and 500 AD. There were still many rooms on the upper level that did not have any exhibits. Even though the entry was free, I made a small donation (20 pesos).
I visited a museum dedicated to the Uruguayan painter 'Joaquim Torres Garcia' who published the book on "Constructive Universalism" (Universalismo Constructivo - Whatever that is). The entry was free. I liked some of his portrait works.
It was still raining. It was not even worth the effort to take my camera out of my bag! I visited an Artisan maker recommended by my guide book. I did not find anything appealing though. I walked on and presently found myself at a Vegetarian store. I purchased a pair of Vegetable spring rolls and they did not have any sauce! I decided to eat the rolls later.
It was raining quite heavily now. I decided to take a bus to the Punta Carretas shopping centre. After a 30-minute ride I reached the shopping centre. We passed the upscale POCITOS neighbourhood during our ride to the shopping centre. A very nice neighbourhood.
The Cineplex at the mall was playing "Petroleo Sangriento" (The Spanish translation for the Daniel Day Lewis’ movie - There will be blood!) There was a showing of the movie at 6:50 PM and it was just 6 PM. I purchased a ticket for 95 Pesos (less than US$5 - cheap). During the 45-minute wait before the movie started, I purchased a pair of socks as well as a decent raincoat. The theatre was quite nice with stadium seating. The movie turned out to be excellent and Daniel day Lewis' performance was well worth his Oscar. I ate the vegetable spring rolls during the movie. I washed it down with Coca-cola!
The movie was over by 9:30 PM and I was able to take a bus back to the centre. During my walk back to the Hotel, I spotted a decent Ice-Cream place and had 2 scoops for 60 pesos. I had a quick check at an Internet cafe before arriving back at my hotel. I paid the 1300 pesos (US$65 approx) for my 3-night stay and requested a wake-up call at 6 AM. I wrote my diary and went to bed.
I head to Colonia del Sacramento on the 9:30 AM bus tomorrow. I sincerely hope that the weather is good.
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