December 18-19, 2007 - Easter Island, Chile

December 18, 2007 - Easter Island, Chile
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During breakfast, I learned a few words of Rapa Nui (the language spoken in Easter Island) from the manager (Marianna) of the hotel. Not that I remember any of it now (3 days later). Marianna is a very distinctive Polynesian lady. She told me that there are quite a few similarities between Rapa Nui, Tahitian and Maori. I was not surprised by that as these three cultures share many common traits.

Cecilia arrived a few minutes after 9 AM. She had another passenger who was to accompany us on today´s tour. Her name was Nil (short for Cornelia) and she was a German. She was a first assistant director by profession and was taking a week´s break in Easter Island after finishing up a 2-month film assignment in Chile. The film was for German Television. Since she spoke very good English I was able to gather all this information within 10 minutes! She had been to Easter island before and had spent 5-weeks here. Not sure if I can handle 5-weeks of vacation on Easter Island.

We set off on our tour. Our first stop was at Anakena Beach about 30 minutes away. Cecilia dropped us off at the beach and told us that she would be back to pick us up at 3 PM. We saw a few MOAI near the beach. After spending around 20 minutes, we decided to go in search of the PINK beach (OVAHE). We set of on a route to the beach described in one of the guidebooks as ´rocky´. We assumed a pebble strewn path. It started off as an easy climb. After crossing the first hill, there was no sight of the pink beach. We climbed a second hill and still there was no sight of OVAHE. Having set out to find the place, neither of us felt like returning to base now.

Continuing on the path set us close to the cliff´s edge. I took my time walking this path carefully. After climbing down about 20 metres on to a sandy / rocky ledge, we spotted the beach. We were still about 30 metres or so above the beach and needed to find a way to reach the beach and feel the waters and the pink sand. We spotted a narrow path that appeared to be heading to the beach. This path was sand and gravel. The slipper kind. I hate these. I am never sure of the efficiency of my sandals in these situations and would prefer rocky ascents/descents to gravel ascents/descents.

I took almost 20 minutes descending the 30 metres to the beach level. The Spanish couple who usually trail me in hiking by quite a distance, were virtually breathing down my back during this descent! Of course, on getting down to the beach level, we all had a good laugh about our ´adventure´. Much as I hate these, will I avoid these in the future? I very much, doubt it as my sense my adventure will invariably triumph caution!

The OVAHE beach was really beautiful and the sands were really pink. Jose, Sylvie and Nil promptly went for a swim. I walked around taking pictures and waded into the water from time to time. A few folks were snorkelling and one intrepid fellow was trying to follow the ancient Polynesian way by trying to harpoon a fish in these shallow waters.

After spending around 30 minutes, we decided to take an alternative route (also recommended in the guide book) back to Anakena beach. This alternative path out of OVAHE put us on a paved (black top) road after less than half a mile of walking with no climbing. From this point on, Anakena beach was 750 metres away! Talk about doing things the hard way (the first time).

Cecilia had also provided us with a picnic basket. There were Cheese sandwiches (vegetarian). I had a banana and a sandwich. After commencing my visit to Chile, I have started eating lots of fruits and consuming fruit juices as opposed to sodas. Post lunch, the trio went for a swim on Anakena beach. It was hardly 1 PM and I had 2 hours to kill (at least). I spent the first hour taking a long walk around the beach. I spent the second hour, sitting in the shade of palm trees at the beach watching life pass me by.

During my beach walk, I did spot a few decayed and rotting fish around the fringes of the beach. Not sure how people can swim in the waters. To get rid of the fine sand, I wanted to wash my hands and face. When I tried to use the toilettes, I was told that there was an entry fee of CLP 500. It looks like folks in Easter Island picture tourists as a $ sign with a big grin! There is a limit to being intrepid / making money. I did not bother to hide my disgust and turned away. After all there was no urgency for me to use the bathroom!

Anakena Beach is perhaps the size of an Olympic sized swimming pool and many tourists visit here. I would strongly advice that picture taking be the sole activity at Anakena and swimming activities be done at OVAHE.

We all dozed on the drive back. As this was my second afternoon in a row without a siesta, it showed!

Cecilia drove us to PUNA PAU. This was the quarry where the RED top knots (or turbans) for the MOAI (Stone statues) were carved. These were then moved to the location of the statues and set on top of the statues. There were a few finished top knots lying around at PUNA PAU. The colour comes from the RED Volcanic rock that is characteristic of PUNA PAU. There is a good view of Hanga Roa from the top of PUNA PAU. I think the view from ORONGO (of Hanga Roa) is far better.

We set off next to Ahu Akivi. This is a spectacular setting where 7 MOAI face the setting sun. I took lots of Pictures. We even came across a Chief of one of the local tribes. The current Rapa Nui people belong to half-a-dozen clans and each clan had a chief. Many of the ancient practices and customs are still adhered to here. So while administered by Chile, the tribes have their own leaders and speak their tongue. Needless to say all of them are at least bi-lingual (Rapa Nui and Spanish). AHU AKIVI is a must see along with ORONGO and RANO KAU.

We headed next to ANA TE PAHU. This was a set of caves with some of these caves serving as underground cisterns (in the past). Many folks constructed houses in these caves and there were signs of ancient habitation and even cooking practices. We did see a small grove of banana trees in one of these caves (that had an opening to the sky).

We headed back to the City centre and were eventually dropped off at the hotel. I wanted to do some work on the computer and headed to an internet cafe nearby. I copied the completed memory cards (from my camera) to my 160-GB hard drive. 13 days so far and I have taken pictures in excess of 12 GB. I shall try and upload some shortly.

I also sent some requests to the hotels in El Calafate (Argentinean Patagonia) and Puerto Natales (Chilean Patagonia) inquiring about bus transfers between various places in Patagonia. As the Internet company was charging quite a bit less for Phone calls to the US (CLP 300 - $0.65 approx per minute), I made a few calls to friends and family. I went back to the same cafe (as yesterday) again for a vegetable Sandwich and watermelon juice.

I made some purchases (bottled water and cookies) on the way back to the hotel.

There are way too many stray dogs in Chile. Many of these are constantly barking (I mean - all day and all night with little respite). This racket most certainly disrupts my nightly sleep not to mention my siesta as well. Of course, there is always the risk of being bitten by one of these animals. (who knows the state of mind of these creatures?)

My advice is to carry a TASER gun when travelling to Chile. While La Serena, San Pedro de Atacama and Easter Island are horrible in that aspect (with large numbers of Stray dogs), Santiago is not that bad. I did not spot any stray dogs during my 18-hour stopover there.

It is 12:40 AM here as I write this listening to my IPOD and the barking of the dogs still permeates the music. Much as I like pets, I cannot stand this incessant barking!

December 19, 2008 - Easter Island, Chile
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I was the first at the breakfast table. Jose and Sylvie joined me a bit later. We chatted a bit. Chileans are not shy about asking how much you make. I was asked this question at La Serena and now here. I don´t have a problem telling as long as the conversation continues in general. I do not want my earnings to be a conversation stopper. It should not be - considering that I will be earning a grand total of ZERO - in any currency - at least over the next 8 months!

After revealing what I used to make, I explained that Uncle sam takes a nice chunk in taxes and that health insurance and apartment rental costs in NYC take up another significant chunk leaving me with not a lot of money. That explanation usually puts things in perspective. Jose and Sylvie (as doctors) make around US$7000 per month enabling them to lice comfortably with their 4 kids in Vina del mar (Close to Santiago).

Easter islanders get free University education. For other Chileans, the cost would be around US$6000 per year. There is no University in Easter Island and Islanders must go to mainland Chile for University education.

Cecilia informed me that there would be no tours today. For the first time in 13 days, today turned out to be a rainy day. I visited the archaeological museum. It was located closed to my hotel and I had an opportunity to try on the poncho I had purchased before my departure to Chile! It was good.

The museum charges an entry fee of CLP 1000. Although the exhibition panels are in Spanish, the museum provides booklets in different languages that explain the panels. This greatly helps non-Spanish speakers appreciate the exhibit. This is a small, but effectively organized museum. I spent an hour here.

The museum shop had heavily overpriced souvenirs. I left the souvenirs to be polished and admired by the museum staff. The rain had stopped by now. I purchased a few postcards. I visited the artisans workshop and market located close to the church. I found more overpriced items here.

I visited the local church and took a long walk around town. I went to Hanga Roa harbour to inquire about boat tours around the island. At the present time, circumnavigation of Isla de Pascua does not exist and a private boat trip would take a few hours and set me back a few hundred dollars! I watched the surfers enjoying the choppy sea caused by the bad weather. Some of these guys are quite good. What do I know! As long as they manage to stay upright for a few seconds, I think it is good.

I visited the ´Queen´of empanadas and had a vegetarian empanada for Lunch. Being a rainy day, the internet cafe was full at 3 PM. I took my completed postcards to the Post office. They could not change my CLP 20000 (US$40) bill for postage worth CLP 670 (US$1.5)! I wandered around from store to store for 20 mins before being able to break my CLP 20000 bill. I went back to the Post office to pay the CLP 670 postage so that my cards can reach the intended recipients.

I had a siesta at the hotel from 4:45 to 7:30! I left the hotel at 8 PM to see the sunset. As the rain continued, there was no sunset possible.I visited the internet cafe again and blogged for an hour. Dinner consisted of a delicious 4-scoop ice-cream. Nil joined me at dinner and we chatted until the restaurant closed (11:15 PM)

Unlike mainland Chile, most restaurants in Easter Island close by 10 PM or so. Restaurants in mainland Chile are open until about 1 AM.

I hope I get to do a tour tomorrow (Dec 20).