December 20, 2007 - Easter Island, Chile
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I met a new French (he) / Chilean (she) couple at breakfast. They were stopping at Easter Island for a few days enroute to Tahiti. This trip was their much delayed honeymoon after their marriage in July. Both spoke French, English and Spanish.
Marianne told me that there would be a tour today at 2:30 PM. As I did not feel like exerting myself until then, I decided to run some errands. I went to the Post office to mail some more cards (I did have the correct change now!) and then went to an Internet cafe to transcribe my diary onto my blog.
I spent about 3 hours blogging and when I was finished, I asked the manager for a discount on being a power internet user! He knocked off CLP 700 off my charges. [Looks like discounts are for the asking - up to a reasonable point] As it was close to 1:30PM and most of the restaurants close by did not have anything vegetarian, I settled on a diet of cookies and juice for lunch. I hoped this would hold me up until 7:30 PM - the time by which I expected to return from the 2:30 PM tour.
Cecilia arrived at 2:30 and the French/Chilean couple and I set off from Hanga Roa towards Anakena beach. After a few Kilometres we veered off to the right onto a road that ran along the eastern coast.
Our first stop was Hanga Tee (VAIHU) where we saw a few toppled MOAI. When one of the warring tribes emerged victorious, they usually set about toppling the MOAI erected by the losing tribe. Cecilia showed us a few stone ovens from those times. Using the abundant sunshine that heated the volcanic rocks, the islanders cooked their catch (mostly fish).
The waves on the eastern coast were quite spectacular. The crashing waves created large sheets of water sprays - some as high as 10 metres. Made for good Photographs.
We headed next to AKAHANGA where we were shown a cave inhabited by some member of a tribe. The temperatures insides these caves are nice without being tool cold. The interiors of these caves are not damp or moist either.
We spent a few minutes here and set off towards RANO RARAKU. We reached RANO RARAKU after 15 minutes of driving. This MOAI on Easter Island were quarried from this dormant volcano. Cecilia told us that the hike around this place would take an hour approximately and told us that she would wait for us in the van.
As we started the hike, we observed quite a few MOAI on the outer slopes the volcano. The first MOAI we encountered required a reasonable climb. From here the path was more or less of even gradient as we observed many MOAI - some still not taken out from their Rocky perches after being carved. One of the reasons given is that the practice of MOAI creation died out and these MOAI were left as is. It would also explain the many top knots (for the MOAI) sitting on the slopes of PUNA PAU.
Many of the MOAI here are over 5 metres tall with the tallest over 20 metres in height.
The gradient gradually increased as we headed towards the rim of the Volcano. As I was wearing my sandals (yet again), I had doubts about its grip on the gravel / sandy path. I think the sandals are fine. My heart might be the one losing its grip with advancing age!
I spoke to many of the folks returning after visiting the rim of the Volcano and they encouraged me by saying that the rim was hardly 3-5 mins away. They do have wooden railings near some treacherous parts of the path to the Volcano´s rim. I reached the rim of the Crater slowly but steadily. The French/ Chilean couple had long disappeared ahead of me.
On reaching the rim, I was presented with a fantastic sight. There was a lake in the centre of the crater. Red volcanic sand could be seen on the shores of this lake. We could also see many Horses grazing near the shore of this lake. There were quite few MOAI on the inside walls of the crater. RANO RARAKU probably went extinct about 200+ million years ago therefore the MOAI builders risked nothing by quarrying this Volcano.
After taking my pictures, I decided to explore an alternative path on the way down. While the right side appeared headed to the higher elevations of the Volcano´s rim, the left side of the path appeared to be headed down on a reasonably wide grassy path. On following this path for about 50 metres or so, I came closer to the lake´s elevation. From here I navigated short descent to reach the level of the lake and the Grazing horses. Much as the horses have better grip than my sandals, they could not be expected to climb the volcano the same way we did. There had to be an alternative path into and out of the volcano.
After taking a few pictures, I turned around to see my reasoning validated. There was a 10-feet break in the crater wall and I could see a narrow passage headed out. I presumed that this must be the way for the horses to come in and go out an started to follow it. Within 5 minutes, I was outside the crater on the Volcano´s outer slope! The gradient was easy and the path wide. As I continued walking I started encountering many of the MOAI I had observed on the way up to the rim.
As I was level with many of these MOAI, I stopped to take in their gaze and the effort that must have gone into carving these statues. I took many pictures along the way. As we were a small group of 3 people, there was no risk of delaying the group because of my stopping to admire (and take pictures) of each MOAI. I took as many pictures of these MOAI as there were far more here than at other places on Easter Island. I reached the entrance to RANO RARAKU about 70 minutes after we started the hike.
Once again, talk about doing things the hard way the first time!
My tour companions showed up about 10 minutes later. We headed to our final stop of AHU TONGARIKI which is a fantastic setting of 15 MOAI in a row facing the setting sun. As we reached AHU TONGARIKI close to 6 PM, the lighting was perfect for taking pictures. I took about 2 dozen pictures (It´s digital after all) and got back to the van.
We headed to Hanga Roa and reached the hotel around 7 PM. As I was planning to see a cultural show at 9 PM this evening, I decided to have an early dinner. As I had not had a proper lunch, this made even more sense. I visited the empanada place on Atamu Takena and had 2 vegetable empanadas (I was hungry!).
After dinner, I visited the KARI KARI cultural centre and paid CLP 10,000 (US$ 20) for the program. One can also pay US$20 in cash. I do not think they accept credit cards.
The show is held in a small tent that has 8 rows of seating to seat about 120 people. The first row of 16 seats was reserved for tour groups. I took a seat in the second row. The view was quite decent. As I had planned to use a flash to take pictures, it made sense to sit as close to the stage as possible. Presently a small group of Japanese tourists occupied the first row of seats.
The program started at 9 PM with musicians performing a few traditional numbers. This was followed by dancers (male and female) in grass skirts - including some with painted faces - performing a few traditional dances set to music. Having seen a similar performance in New Zealand (by MAORI groups) back in 2001, this performance had a familiarity.
There were certainly a few notable differences:
The performers here were professional (they were part of the KARI KARI ballet ensemble) and out their hearts into this performance. After about 20 minutes every performer was drenched in sweat from head to toe.
The second biggest difference was that there were no MARTIAL (fighting) dances performed by the male dancers. The MAORIS have MARTIAL dances - Witness the Haka in Rugby games, if you can (definitely s sight to behold!)
The program lasted an hour and towards the end audience members were invited to join the dancers on the stage (this was quite similar to the MAORI performance in NZ as well). I was passed. Just as well!
At the end of the program, we were invited to take pictures with the performers. I took the opportunity to take a picture with the dancers and the musicians. Nil who was to have joined me for this performance, joined me at the end of the performance (she had mistaken waited at another place for this performance!) and we went out for a drink.
Being a Thursday, Hanga Roa was in a party mood. Many of the locals had set up boom boxes and were merrily drinking away. We had a barely quaffable organic Chilean wine. We did a bit of people watching while quaffing away.
The Rapa Nui folks are a fat lot. The only lean ones are the Ballet dancers and children until their early teens. Older Rapa Nui folks are slim as well. But most folks in the age group of 20-60 are mostly fat. This could be due to a number of factors: A heavily meat based (despite it being sea food) diet. A laid back life style that hardly allows for much exercising. The third factor could be genetics. Most Polynesians I have seen are robust (= FAT!).
People here invariably choose friendship and bonding over tending to business. They would shutter shop in seconds, if their friends show up and invite them to go fishing or surfing! Come to think of it, this is not a bad thing. What have we achieved by slaving away in cubicles? An endless mortgage?
I digress. We found out that there was a live performance by a local group called TOPA TANGI taking place at a nearby bar. We headed there and paid the entrance fee of CLP 2500 (US$6). This entitled us to a free drink. I had a PISCO COLA.
It was 11:30 PM. The place was slowing getting packed with more and more locals. Cecilia showed up with a friend. Most locals were smartly dressed. Cecilia and her friend were dressed as if going to a new year´s eve ball at the Ritz Carlton! As for the dress code of the tourists, the less said the better.
The program started after midnight! More and more, the Rapa Nui folks start their parties really late. Many of them have dinner close to Midnight and start their parties at 1 AM. No wonder restaurants need to close early, as those folks can have a nice dinner later and head out to party!
The songs were local favourites and many of the locals sang along as well. For some numbers the locals went to the front of the stage and danced. For some other numbers, some members of the KARI KARI ballet performed some traditional dances. Although I was invited to dance by Cecilia, I declined.
This was a good performance. Although after 20 minutes all songs appear to have the same beat and perhaps even lyrics! In all fairness, if one starts to listen to Albums by groups such as the Eagles or Jethro Tull, the songs start to have the same monotony after a few numbers!
The performers decided to take a break after 45 minutes. It was close to 1 AM. The DJ started playing some local numbers and then moved on to some disco numbers and even a badly done rendition of Pink Floyd´s "Dark side of the Moon"! Nil and I decided we had had enough culture for an evening. We excused ourselves and said goodnight to Cecilia and headed to our hotels.
Walking back at night is quite safe in Easter Island. Crime is not an issue. Even the stray dogs you encounter ignore you (if you choose to ignore them)! The moonlit night over the pacific was quite nice. I went to bed close to 2 AM.
Cecilia and the 2 Chilean couples had taken it upon themselves to find a Chilean woman for me. With 3 days to go before I head to Santiago and then to Argentina, not sure whether it will work out in time!
December 21, 2007 - Easter Island, Chile
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Today and tomorrow are free days. Nil met me at Cecilia´s after breakfast and we headed out on a hike along the south western coast of Hanga Roa until the Start of the ANA KAI TANGATA trail. The trail continued to RANA KAU Volcano and ORONGO. Neither of us were up to spending 4 more hours doing this hike! We decided to head back to the centre of Hanga Roa. The entire hike and return to Hanga Roa took us a good 2 hours.
We refreshed ourselves with a fresh pineapple juice and watched the surfers enjoying themselves along the Hanga Roa beach. Despite the abundance of Coconut trees, Coconut juice is not on offer here at restaurants or at Sandwich shops.
I visited the entel Chile office and called the toll-free number of Aerolineas Argentinas. After returning to Santiago by LAN CHILE, I was taking Aerolineas Argentinas for a month (for about 4 trips within Argentina). Aerolineas requires re-confirmation of bookings 72 hours before departure! After confirming that all was well with by bookings, we visited a tour agency and inquired about tours to POIKE. We were told that the only way to tour POIKE was to do it by ourselves. There were no organized tours available.
We headed to our respective hotels for a siesta. I woke up around 4:30 Pm and took my clothes to a local laundry. The laundry charged me CLP 2500 (US$5.25) per kilo for washing and drying. The laundry does not offer an option of doing it on your own (at a cheaper price).To think the Cecilia´s place wanted to Charge me CLP 5000 (US$11) to do this! I think there needs to be a limit to greed. As I am firm believer in "Cleanliness being next to Godliness", the price - although more expensive than Santiago - was not a deterrent. This way, I would not have to revisit a Laundromat until I am well into Patagonia.
I blogged for about 2 hours and copied photos from my memory cards to my external hard drive. I visited the RAA cafe on Atamu Takena and had a delicious (and perhaps the most expensive - CLP 6500 - US$15) vegetable soup with coconut milk as a base. I followed it up with a fruit salad and a Chilean coffee (called CORTADO).
I wondered about the reaction of many of the islanders (who had never travelled outside of Easter island) when they encounter a live Elephant, a Camel, Giraffe or any of the big cats. I think many of us are fortunate to have seen and observed many of these things first hand.
The nights are getting a bit chilly here. Not sure if Summer in Mainland Chile equates to cooler nights on Easter Island:) The foul fish smell emanating from my checked in bag had more or less disappeared. I gave it a rinse anyways and left it to dry.
Tomorrow is my last full day on Easter Island. I have seen whatever I wanted to see and have enjoyed my stay here. What started as an obsession during a trip to the Galapagos (in 1999) - when one of the Australian couples talked about their visit to Easter Island and its great culture and history - has finally become a reality.
To recap, here are the MUST see / do activities when visiting Easter island (in order of Priority)
(a) Visiting the RANO KAU Volcano (and its lake) and ORONGO Ruins
(b) Visiting the RANO RARAKU Volcano and its lake
(c) Visiting the magnificent MOAI at AHU TONGARIKI and AHU AKIVI
(d) Watching the Sunset at AHU TAHAI
(e) Walking along the South Eastern coast - Hangao Roa to Hanga Omohi
I would definitely recommend a 5-day stay here.
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