December 29, 2007 - El Calafate, Argentina

December 29, 2007 - El Calafate, Argentina
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I was up early. The breakfast here starts at 6:30 AM and there was already a Belgian couple at breakfast. I was not served for a long time despite ringing a bell to draw attention. The couple shared some of their breakfast with me. I wanted to eat something before heading on the tour.

The pickup which was supposed to be at 7 AM finally arrived at 7:40! We headed to Punta Banderas (the port from which we would set sail to see the Glaciers) around 8:30 AM. We paid the 30 pesos in park fees before boarding the ship around 9 AM. There were 4 catamarans in all. Well maintained with good facilities. Fernandez Campbell has the monopoly on running tours to these glaciers. So irrespective of whether you book it directly through them (as I did) or through your hotel or another tour company, you pay the same price and will sail on a Fernandez Campbell boat.

Our program was to start at Onelli lake before heading to Upsala and Speggazini glaciers. The ride to Onelli lake took an hour. We were to go on a 1 KM trek here to Onelli lake and view the ice floes from Upsala glacier floating on this lake. There was a constant drizzle that ruined my picture taking. I preferred not taking pictures that having my camera get wet while taking pictures.

As I was not doing much picture taking (due to the weather) I started observing my fellow travellers on the boat. You have to give it to the Europeans. Every one of them had a north face jacket, Columbia boots, Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses. It was as if these companies issued these items (at a price of course) to these folks before they departed their home countries for south America.

Of course, with the exception of 3 people (2 Japanese and yours truly) no one ever had carried a poncho! And the guidebooks clearly mention the need for one as the weather can be unpredictable here. Guess D & G, or North face need to get into the Poncho business. Buy it from China for 3 Cents and sell it to the Europeans for 300 Euros. I should be paid royalties from this billion $ business!

We spent 1 hour at Lake Onelli. It would have been great but for the incessant drizzle. Many folks had their picnic lunch here. It was too early (12 Noon) as I had gotten into the south American habit of a late Almuerzo (yes, that means Lunch).

We headed next to Upsala Glacier. There was still a light drizzle as we neared the glacier. More than the glacier - which all look more or less the same (a huge mass of ice that folks have named after someone or the other) - the icebergs / ice floes that have broken off from the Glaciers are far more interesting and make great pictures. We did not see any Calving at the Upsala Glacier while we were there. From what I understood from the guide´s English description, it appears that Upsala glacier is receding.

Using a Polarizing filter while photographing icebergs creates terrific pictures. Yes, I will upload them shortly!

We headed next to Speggazini. We sailed for an hour before reaching Speggazini. There were no Calving here either. Speggazini is not as impressive as Upsala as there are not too many icebergs floating around Speggazini.

We headed back to Punta banderas. I listened to a performance by the comic John Leguizamo on my IPod. I listened last night to Russell Peters before sleeping. Both are terrific comics. Good to have a laugh even by yourself :)

I was back at El Calafate by 5:30 PM. Although Nestor allowed me to use his computer (to transfer my pictures from my memory card to my portable hard drive) the computer refused to recognize my hard drive. I met a New Yorker (Noah) who was a programmer turned head hunter. Maybe there is a career for me. Not sure if it can finance my expensive habits though!
Noah advised me to visit a local estancia (Sheep farm) rather than go to El Chalten to see Mt. Fitzroy. I may take that advice.

I took my clothes to a nearby laundry. Turned out to be a good move as the laundry is closed tomorrow (Sunday). By giving them my clothes today (Saturday), I can get them back on Monday.

There was a local dealer who was exchanging currency and traveler´s checks. I got a decent rate (2.92 Argentine pesos to a USD) and there was no commission charged.

I had dinner at a restaurant called La Cocina. The pasta was bland. Part of it was my fault as I could have ordered something different. I had a VALMONT which was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir. It had a light nose, was light bodied and smooth with a short finish. This is something that can definitely be tried again. 375 ml cost me ARP 17 (US$6). It was produced by Bodega Chandon. I topped my dinner off with a Chocolate Ice Cream with Orange Sauce. An excellent choice if I say so myself !

I visited an Internet cafe and downloaded all my Pictures and replicated 4 of my memory cards on both portable hard drives (160 GB and 120 GB). 2 Hours of dial-up usage cost me ARP 16 (US$ 5 approx.)

I was told that the clock advances an hour tonight. That would be NOW as I am writing these entries well past midnight. I hope to get a few hours of sleep and be fresh for my mini trekking of Perito Moreno Glacier. I hope that the weather stays fair.