December 30-31, 2007 - El Calafate, Argentina

December 30, 2007 - El Calafate, Argentina
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Going to bed late last night and the clock advancing an hour were certainly not a good combination to wake up early today as I was to be at the gate of my Hostel by 8 AM for my trip to Perito Moreno.

Had a decent breakfast with an almost black coffee (still cannot do 100% black) hoping to stir myself awake. While waiting for my Shuttle (Which, of course, did not show up at 8 AM) I chatted with a German couple about their travels. Despite them both being lawyers, they were doing hardcore backpacking and winging it by staying in Hostels. The one concession they give themselves (as I do for myself) is that they (and I) do not stay in dormitories. They were headed to EL Chalten (5 hours North west from El Calafate) form some serious trekking. I, on the other hand, wanted my tour postponed until I was fully awake :)

The shuttle came around 8:15 AM. After a few more stops around town to pick up more people we headed to the Perito Moreno glacier. This is not to be confused with the town of the same name - which is about 7 hours North of El Calafate. We drove for an hour (more or less along the same route we took yesterday to reach the ferry terminal at Punta Bandera) and I slept like a log.

We reached another Ferry landing where we boarded a small boat with a total capacity of perhaps 40 people. While 90% of the group was out on the deck of the boat taking pictures, I was still waking up. After a short ride (15 minutes) we stepped ashore onto a rocky landing.

We were separated into 2 groups. The English speakers were in 1 group (led by an English speaking guide) and the Spanish speakers were in another group (led by a Spanish speaking guide). We reached a shelter with a few cabins about 200 metres from the landing area where we could use the bathrooms and leave our non essentials behind in these shelters. I left my food pack behind, but took my camera backpack.

We were going to do a 2-hour trek on the Perito Moreno Glacier - roughly about 1 kilometre each way (about 1.2 miles total). The guide explained the climatic changes causing glaciers and named the glaciers that were receding (because of global warming) as well as the ones that were advancing. Perito Moreno has remained the same for nearly 100 years - Yes, neither advancing nor receding).

We were told to wear gloves as the glacial ice is quite sharp and if we were to grab the ice to break a fall our hands would most certainly bleed. Those who did not bring gloves were provided with a pair. Nothing fancy but pairs that would certainly stop you from cutting your hands.

There was a steady drizzle. During my Glacier visits yesterday, I had ripped by poncho lightly and it worsened so badly that I gave up on wearing my Poncho. Note to readers: Whenever visiting a glacier - wear/carry a good windproof and waterproof jacket and pants. Some of you folks can be better prepared than I am! Would also advice you to look around for some water proof protection for your cameras. Maybe a clear plastic wrap that can be used to cover your camera during rains while enabling you to take pictures. It was cold! Despite wearing gloves my fingers were numb. My feet were OK.

We walked for what seemed like eternity (maybe it was just 10 minutes!) and came to an area filled with what looked like hanging Rat traps. The "rat traps" turned out to be the crampons we had to wear before we set out on our trek of the Glacier. We were fitted with crampons by the folks at the Crampon station. You sat on a high chair and out your feet on a lower stool, while the folks there picked out the right set of crampons, laced it up, tightened the straps to ensure that they do not come off during the hike. That´s what I call service!

I suddenly realized that I was missing my hat. Maybe I lost it during my Poncho struggles. Damn it. Losing the Poncho and the hat. Will get wet and hot in the head!

The guide explained the approach to walking on the Glacier. Going up requires one to walk like a duck and walk like a Monkey (or John Wayne - his expression not mine) while walking down. Both required your feet to be spread as wide as your shoulders to prevent yourself from tripping by having the crampon nails get caught in your trousers or laces etc. [NO one wore shorts]

I had given up on taking pictures. I was not going to get my camera wet. The backpack was a decent one and protected my camera equipment from the light rain.

After some trepidation, I got used to walking with my crampons. They are quite heavy and perhaps add at least 3-4 pounds to each feet. The crampons worn by the guides have spikes in front as well.

During my glacial climbing experience in New Zealand (on the FOX glacier) we were given HEAVY boots (9 pounds in weight EACH) to wear and provided a sharp stick to use as a stabilizer during the hike. We were not given any walking sticks here.

Anytime we were crossing a tricky path, one of the guides stood near the path and gave a helping hand to those who needed it. This also ensured that no one strayed accidentally from the path and fell into a deep crevasse! We were told to maintain a single file, unless the guides instructed otherwise. From time to time we reached flat ground on the ice where we were told to break formation to take pictures and wander a few feet by ourselves.

The rain had stopped. I took my camera out to take a few pictures before returning it to its protective perch inside my bag. We continued on and after abut an hour we reached a plateau. Plateau is a figure of speech. Don´t expect to see 2 acres of flat ice where you can play soccer! Plateau here means that the group was more or less on the same level - at best a difference of 3 feet in elevation.

I stopped here to take more pictures as the rain had stopped completely. I was hot as well and took off my gloves. It was a good thing that I did not bring in another sweater. After a 15-minute rest we started heading back down.

As always climbing down is the hardest part. The guides were excellent. They helped us whenever we needed it. After a couple of steep descents, we took a different route down that was more of a sloping plateau with no deep crevasses. We stopped at the centre of the plateau and found a table and a couple of stools set up. We were given candy bars and some ´Jameson´on the rocks! The rocks were glacial ice, of course! It was a nice touch :)

We returned to the Crampon area and were instructed to untie our own crampons. It was not too difficult. We were given a little over an hour to wander around, eat our picnic lunch - if we had carried them. I took this opportunity to take lots of pictures. It was past noon, the sun was out in force and there was no rain.

The boat picked us up around 2:30 PM and dropped us back on the other side - where the shuttle had left us in the morning. We boarded the bus and I dozed off again - Siesta time :) After about 40 minutes of driving, the bus stopped and we were told to get out and be back in the bus by 4:15 PM!

We were going to see a different side of the Perito Moreno glacier. This is the side of the Glacier most people see especially if they do not want to do the mini-trekking on the glacier. There were walkways provided here and there are viewing platforms on 3 levels. This is the side of the glacier that crackles and calves all the time. During our visit here, we observed some good calving. Pretty good. Better than my experience in Alaska.

We boarded the bus and got back to El Calafate by 5:30 PM. On reaching the hotel, I talked to Nestor about visiting an Estancia tomorrow (Monday - Dec 31).

Nestor recommended that I visit the Estancia office located on the main street. After talking to the Sales representative there and clarifying my doubts, I booked myself on a half-day trip to visit Estancia Nibepo Aike.

On my way back , I bought myself a replacement Poncho for ARP 15 (US$ 5). I also decided that Bruce Chatwin will accompany me on my Travels in Patagonia so I could compare my experiences to his!

I had a Pizza for dinner. I headed to an Internet cafe and replicated all my pictures. I have taken 25.8 GB of pictures (2874 pictures) thus far. Yes, yes, I will upload them. I realized that I have not had rice for over 4 weeks. I may not see it until I reach NJ in April 2008!

Today has been the best day trip thus far on my 4-week vacation. It was well worth the price ARP 340 (US$ 115).

December 31, 2007 - El Calafate, Argentina
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I missed the Alarm as I had my earplugs on. A German couple who possible checked in late last night were parading up and down their room upstairs and the creaking floorboards prevented me from falling asleep. Hence the earplugs. Man, are they good!

Being a shave day (decided against growing a beard lest I scare the Latinas) the ablutions took longer than usual. I got to breakfast by 8:20 AM but did not get any service until 8:40 AM. Looks like the maid was tending to other things rather than serve breakfast! I kept a nervous look on the road outside as my Estancia trip pickup was schedule between 8:30 and 9 AM.

I was finally served breakfast. After finishing a hurried breakfast, I waited (as is the norm) outside the hostel gates. This time around I was browsing my Spanish phrase book. The pickup arrived around 9:15 AM. Estancia Nibepo Aike was located about 80 kilometres (50 miles) south east of El Calafate. By the time we picked up some more folks and set off for the estancia is was around 9:30.

I was wide awake admiring the Scenery. It was Spectacular. We were driving on a 2-lane paved road that was straight as far as the eye could see. We traversed along Lago Argentino, snow covered mountains, lush green pastures. I would have preferred a clear blue sky (a La Serena) but this was good. After about 40-45 Kilometres from El Calafate, the paved road ended and we travelled on a dirt road for the next 35 kilometres.

We drove along Lago Roca and reached the Estancia around 11 AM. The owner greeted us individually and offered us coffee and tea. I would have tried MATE if it was being done and served properly, but plain old coffee and tea was not going to cut it for me here!

About 12 of us (out of the total complement of 17-18 passengers on the tour) chose horse back riding at the estancia. I wanted to try it as I had never tried it before. The horse riding was an option that would cost me ARP 30 (US$ 10).

We headed to the Stables where each of us was helped on to our horses (chosen depending on the individual riding it) by the two gauchos. They also ensured that we had our feet set properly on the stirrups. Some of us had longer reins and some of us had shorter reins. The gauchos decided the length of these reins. Not sure why. I was given short reins.

After we were all seated and set, one of the gauchos led the group from the front while the second gaucho bought up the rear. I loosely held the reins with my left hand and took pictures with my right hand. The gaucho bringing up the rear told me (in Spanish) on how to stop the horse completely (pull the reins hard until the horse stops) so I could take proper pictures. To get the horse moving again, all one had to do was dig one´s heels into its sides.

This was a terrific ride especially as it was my first. Since I knew how to stop the horse and get it moving again, I took my time composing and taking pictures with the green pastures, snow capped mountains, Lago Roca, the gauchos and my fellow riders providing the backdrop. The only sounds were the laboured breathing of the horses an the gaucho answering queries posed by the riders.

If one has the time, one must not only visit a remote estancia (like Nibepo Aike) but most certainly do some horseback riding while there. I think Horseback riding is called Cabalgata in Spanish.

We rode up and down a mountain with quite steep ascents and descents for an hour before returning to the estancia. I am glad the horse did the ascents and descents! We were then herded to a sheep shearing demonstration using old fashioned shearing scissors. The gaucho took close to 15 minutes to shear a sheep. There are about 300 sheep on the estancia and each is shorn about once a year.

I recalled visiting a farm in New Zealand (the sheep capital of the world) where the shearer gave a masterful performance by shearing a sheep in just under 3 minutes. As New Zealand has over 40 Million Sheep, an extra 12 minutes (taken by the Gaucho here) would make a huge difference in productivity. To be fair, the shearer in NZ using electric shearing scissors and that probably eased his work quite a lot.

Nibepo Aike used to be a full fledged farm until the Argentine government took a large part of the estancia during the process of creating Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (PNLG). I recalled seeing many signs on the way to the estancia indicating that we were entering the Los Glaciares parque. The farm in its present state caters solely to tourists during the summer months (Dec-Apr). The owner also told us that at least 8000 sheep are required for a sheep farming operation to be economical. Right now the estancia has about 300 sheep, 3 dozen horses and some cattle.

The setting is quite fantastic. My guidebook has been right about this place. We were provided lunch and the meat eaters had an ecstatic time as their menu had lamb (including lamb´s tongue), beef, pork and horse. I am sure the Lamb, beef and horse were from the estancia. I was not sure where the pork was from as I did not see any live ones during my stay at the ranch. Maybe the last of the species was fed to the tourists today!

As I had clearly indicated to the estancia´s office that I was a vegetarian and had also confirmed it to the owner earlier in the day, I was given a plate of white rice, with boiled spinach and corn. I supplemented this with some lettuce and carrots from the salad bowl. My 4-week hiatus from rice was broken today! We also had a wine made at the estancia. Nothing worth writing about.

I met some interesting folks during this trip to the estancia. Usually most of us are silent during the outbound journey as most of us are still groggy from the lack of sleep. Once we reach our destination, we start opening up as more or less bump into each other at every turn whether it is sheep shearing or horseback riding or having lunch.

A Columbian anthropologist married to a video game producing Frenchman who works for Electronic Arts with the couple living in Guildford outside London. Her Spanish was measured and perfect. Despite having an Argentine from at our Lunch table, she criticized the Argentine and Chilean way of speaking Spanish.

Am American family from Virginia with their Son (who was travelling the world before he took up his job as a lawyer and started putting in 80 hour weeks) and daughter (an exchange student who had flown in from Italy - where she was currently studying). Dad and mom were easy going and the kids did the Spanish to English translation for them.

A Zimbabwean émigré who has lived in Argentina for over 30 years and spoke excellent Spanish while retaining the peculiar accent unique to Zimbabweans and South Africans.

Two ladies from Brazil (Sao Paolo). One, a owner of a French restaurant and the other a wine writer who simply adores New York. Mentioning I was from NYC always brings a smile to any strangers lips in this part of the world. Everyone seems to love it. Those damn tourists!

As I have the wine writer´s card, I intend to call on her when I visit Sao Paolo in February 2008.

On my return to El Calafate, I picked up my laundry. The cost for washing and drying was ARP 15 (US$ 5). No clothes were missing!

As it was early in the evening, I headed out to see a local lagoon (Laguna Nimez). On reaching it after a 20-minute walk, I found out that it was closed! Being New Year´s eve, maybe they had decided to close early. I headed back to the city centre and went about looking for a restaurant for dinner. It was just like Christmas eve in Puerto Madryn. Most restaurants were closed and would open only in the evening on Jan 1, 2008 or on Jan 2, 2008. The few that were open were either fully booked for the evening or were offering a 4-5 course prix-fixe dinner that had coffee as the sole item not containing any meat!

I finally found a bookstore that also had a small cafe (Borges y Alvarez) where they served comida rapida (fast food). I had a breaded soybean sandwich with tomato, lettuce and cheese. As I knew the ´famous´ice-cream place would be quite packed this evening, I settled for a coffee at the cafe.

Post dinner, I headed to a local chocolate shop and bought a box of chocolates. They are supposedly famous. I headed to an internet cafe for 20 minutes during which I sent greetings to friends and family for the New Year. It was quite good walking after 10 PM. Although the sun is behind the clouds, there is still plenty of light for at least another hour. There is a nice light breeze blowing during this time.

As I was headed to Puerto Natales early the next morning, I packed up. I shortlisted the pictures to upload. I am yet to find a place with decent internet connection. I will try again in Puerto Natales and in Ushuaia.

I have had a good stay at El Calafate. It is most certainly a very very touristy town but it is worth staying here for seeing the wonderful sights that are close to here.